Climbing the forbidden spires
Granite of the eastern Karakoram
For decades the Saltoro and Kondus valleys were closed because of the Siachen conflict. They are open again, and they remain one of the least visited climbing grounds in Baltistan.
“Villagers in the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys no longer see expeditions… these eastern valleys have some of the finest clean granite towers in Baltistan. The towers above these ascents remain for another generation of climbers.” — John Mock, written while the area was closed, before 2000
Since the valleys reopened, Blue Sky has taken climbing groups through these corridors. This 27-day alpine-style program is for first ascents on unclimbed towers below 6,500m, based at Khorkondo and on the Kebri Glacier. The named 7,000m peaks in the table are the surrounding range. They are not the objective of these 27 days.
Why these valleys
- • First ascents on unclimbed, unnamed towers below 6,500m
- • Khorkondo village and the Kebri Glacier in the eastern Karakoram
- • Clean granite with firm holds on steep faces
- • Shorter approaches than the central Karakoram, so more days on the rock
- • Saltoro Kangri, Sherpi Kangri, Link Sar, K6, K7 and Chogolisa in the same ranges
Iconic summits
| Peak | Height | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Saltoro Kangri I | 7,742 m | The highest peak in the Saltoro Range. |
| Saltoro Kangri II | 7,705 m | A massive, snow-clad sentinel. |
| Sherpi Kangri I | 7,380 m | A technical peak in the Saltoro. |
| Sherpi Kangri II | 7,100 m | A technical neighbour of Sherpi Kangri I. |
| Chogolisa | 7,668 m | Twin peaks of the wider Karakoram. |
| K6 | 7,281 m | A major peak of the neighbouring Hushe ranges. |
| Link Sar | 7,041 m | A technical summit on the Charakusa–Kondus divide. |
| K7 | 6,934 m | Granite walls above the Charakusa Glacier. |
Many of the sub-6,000m towers can be reached from the road, so the program spends more days climbing and fewer days walking in. The granite is the clean, firm rock big-wall climbers look for.
